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The Culinary Institute of America Welcomes Esporão

Chief Winemaker David Baverstock lead a wine seminar for students at the Hyde Park campus and recounts this experience in our latest blog post.
On April 11, I made a return visit to the CIA in the company of Blanche Orbe, Brand Manager for Esporão in the States. We made sure to get there early as on a previous visit with Viniportugal, I arrived an hour late and you just don’t do that when someone like Michael Weiss is waiting to receive you! Michael is one of the two professors of wine studies at the CIA, a larger than life figure (6 foot seven!) who is largely responsible for the standards of excellence that have been achieved at the campus, and a stickler for discipline and punctuality.
We were given a personal tour of the Hyde Park campus by Michael and it is one very impressive setup. The 170 acre campus provides students with 41 kitchens and bakeshops, 5 public restaurants, lecture halls, demonstration theaters, computer labs and an extensive culinary library. The CIA is the world’s premier culinary college producing chefs and sommeliers who have been trained to the highest levels of excellence. It was originally founded in 1946 in New Haven to provide culinary training and careers for returning World War two veterans. It grew rapidly and in 1972, the college moved to its expansive main campus in Hyde Park, NY. The first associate degree program in culinary arts was introduced in 1971, followed by an associated degree in baking and pastry arts in 1990. In 1995, the college opened a location at Greystone in the Napa Valley, followed by San Antonio in Texas in 2007, and finally, a campus in Singapore in 2010. Today, the CIA enrolls nearly 2,800 students from virtually every US state, and 30 foreign countries, in its degree and certificate programs.

David Baverstock leads a seminar at the Culinary Institute of America

So it was against this backdrop that we presented a seminar on Esporão, covering both the Alentejo estate and the Quinta dos Murças project in the Douro, and a tasting of 8 of our top wines to some 90 students who were to sit their enology exams the following day. It was held in the Danny Kaye theater, a huge auditorium and quite a daunting experience for me as it reminded me of times long gone when I was on the other side of the podium as a student, studying winemaking in Australia. The highlight was undoubtedly the tasting, as the wines showed extremely well and the students were asked by Michael and Steve Koplan, the other professor in wine studies, to give their impressions on the wines and also to try and match the wine with food. As the students came from all over the world, some of the food pairings were pretty interesting! It was very interactive with Michael provoking the students to try and come up with ever more detailed and exciting descriptions for aromas and flavor sensations, I think I learned a lot! I also encouraged the students to ask as many general wine questions as possible knowing that they had their wine exams the following day and I could help them with winemaking details. 

Michael Weiss, Steve Koplan and David Baverstock

It was a very rewarding experience and great to think that Esporão had been given such an important opportunity to make an impact and influence many of the future top world chefs and sommeliers.

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A Rosé is a Rosé is an Aragonês (Esporão’s Defesa And Alandra Rosés Arive in time for Spring!)

You’ve gotten to meet quite a few of Esporão’s wines on these virtual pages (well, as close to meeting them as you can get without actually being able to reach into your screen and drink them… but if we can get over that technological hurdle anytime soon, trust us, you will be the first to know!).

We’ve covered the pot-roast-ready Monte Velho Red, the tangy, complex Assobio and succulent Tawny port of Quinta dos Murças, Esporão flagship Reserva line white and red blends (with recipes… neither of which can be tasted through your screen, either… sorry!), and most recently some of the latest single varietal and Duas Castas white wine releases.

But what we haven’t talked about are two of Esporão’s other wine brands – Defesa and Alandra. And we haven’t yet talked about the more delicate side of Esporão’s lineup,which have arrived in the U.S. just in time for warmer weather and are practically screaming for a place inside your Spring picnic cooler: Rosés. So now that the new Defesa and Alandra rosés are hitting the store shelves in the U.S., we can kill two red-breasted-robin Springtime birds with one stone here!

Defesa 2011 and Alandra roses

The new Defesa and Alandra rosés, now demanding a spot at your next Spring picnic!

Sure, it can seem cliché to talk about pink wines for Springtime… but you know what they say: some clichés are cliché because they’re true. But as is par for the course in the exciting world of Portuguese winemaking, you’re likely to find the grapes involved in these rosés as anything but cliché.

And you’ll want to know about these wines anyway, because based on how quickly their inventory is moving, your friends might already be drinking them!

The 2011 Defesa rosé hails from Alentejo, and is made up of a blend of Syrah – which is quite often made into fine rosés – and Aragonês, otherwise known as Tempranillo, which is a lot more famous for making bold, earthy, spicy red wine in places like Rioja than it is for making pink wines. The Defesa sports a color livelier than any pink-dyed egg that the Easter Bunny could ever bring around, which turns out to be a strong indicator of how this wine tastes: it’s got aromas of red cherries and fresh strawberry to spare. If you’re into Springtime gardening, then you’ll be even happier with this rosé’s aromatic complexity, because it’s all flowers and mint that peek out as the wine warms up slightly in the glass.

Once it’s in your mouth, you’ll get cherry and spicy blackberry flavors from the Defesa rosé that are lively with a sense of elegance and fullness, kind of like one of those Beethoven scherzos that got criticized as too racy when he wrote them but turned out to be totally brilliant.  It’s a good match for Asian food, sausages, or a really, really good, upscale ham sandwiches (if you’re getting hungry, our apologies – hey, at least the Beethoven part you can experience through your computer!).

If you’re hankering for an afternoon picnic or BBQ to take advantage of the Springtime warmth, Esporã’s everyday, accessible Alandra rosé is thoroughly “cooler-ready.” Bursting with raspberry and strawberry flavors, it’s got a slightly lighter style than its big sister Defesa but packs some similar minty notes, and the current release offers a lot more vibrant fruit and complexity than you’d reasonably expect from a wine in this price point, pink or not.

And now that we’ve pretty much exhausted how close we can get you to these new fun-loving rosés through a screen, it’s probably time for you to find a real bottle of the stuff and grab that picnic basket…

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Fireworks And Filigree: Three Grapes, Two New Esporão White Wine Releases

Some wines almost literally jump out of the glass at you. Well, not literally splashing at your face (unless you’ve gotten a hold of a very aggressive bubbly, and/or are trying to drink it on a treadmill at high speed – something that is thoroughly not recommended, by the way)… but with flavors and aromas that are so vibrant, flashy, and wonderful that they treat your olfactory senses to a veritable fireworks display.

Other wines are contemplative, more complex, demanding a bit more time and attention to reveal their elegant beauty – less like fireworks, and more like a stunning piece of wiry gold filigree jewelry, a latticework of interconnected and complimentary aromas and textures.

Esporão has taken three white wine grapes – one well-known, one largely unfamiliar to American drinkers, and one somewhere in-between those two extremes – and used hem to produce two quite different but equally intriguing wines in their latest batch of 2011 releases.

Two New 2011 White Wines from Esporão

Fireworks & Filigree: 2 New 2011 White Wines from Esporão

First up is the 2011 Verdelho, made from vines in Alentejo that average ten years old, and is easily identifiable with its stunning “V” label design (for more on the pedigree behind that label, check out Notes From Esporão’s design feature on the Esporão labels and artists from last Summer). Verdelho isn’t exactly a household name in the U.S. like Chardonay or Sauvignon Blanc, but it’s not obscure, either; in fact, it’s been gaining popularity in America because of the value for money it offers in Portuguese white wines, and is seeing expansion in California as more winegrowers and winemakers there fall in love with its crisp, fruity aromatics and seek to reproduce the magic in their home state. Verdelho originates from the Portuguese island of Madeira, and Esporão’s chief winemaker David Baverstock was actually the first to grow the grape in the Alentejo region.

Esporão’s 2011 Verdelho picks up almost right where their kickin’ 2010 version left off, which is where the fireworks come in – BAM! – it’s a stunning display of limes, passionfruit, and lip-smacking citrus, with an undercurrent of rocky, mineral goodness that holds everything together and gives those intense flavor explosions a firm launching pad on solid ground. In the past, we’ve talked about pairing Esporão’s 2010 Verdelho with baby fava beans and smoked sausages, and while the 2011 could hold its own with that fare, its vibrancy seems like a natural for seafood cerviche. Anyone else getting hungry…?

Next up – the filigree: Esporão’s 2011 Duas Castas (“two grapes”). Each year, the blend of grape varieties that go into 2 Castas changes, in order to show the best of what is grown during that vintage. In 2011, the blend features Semillon – well known as an elegant, powerful component to some of the longest-lived white wines in Bordeaux and Australia – and the more obscure Portuguese native Viosinho grape.

Poor Viosinho – its low yields of fruit made it unpopular with grape growers, and the only praise that the lofty Oxford Companion to Wine saw fit to give it was that it was “useful” (ouch!). Fortunately, Viosinho seems poised to make a bit of a comeback – it’s finding its way into Port and still white wines, and does particularly well in Alentejo where the abundant sunshine helps it to develop to its fragrant, floral best without falling prey to mildew.

The 2011 Duas Castas really shows off Viosinho’s potential – it ads a racy backbone and complex fragrances of orange blossoms to the more unctuous and silky Semillon. The result of the blend is an interlaced, complex, delicious wine, something greater than its constituent parts, which all come together elegantly like a gold filigree.  Where the 2011 Verdelho is a perfect aperitif, the 2011 Duas Castas is a white wine for a big meal, showing its best after decanting and sporting enough steely structure to age for quite a long time in the bottle. And – this is the really fun part – it’s something totally different from what the 2010 Duas Castas presented. A fan of surprise and novelty? Well,  you probably enjoy following along with Duas Castas from here and seeing if 2012 brings fireworks, filigree, or both!

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Women in Wine Networking Lunch Showcases Flexible Pairing of Esporão Whites

This post was contributed by Diane Letulle who recently attended our Women in Wine luncheon with Sandra Alves. Diane writes Wine Lover’s Journal. She also writes the Manhattan Wine Examiner and National Wine Travel columns for Examiner.com. She teaches wine classes in New Jersey and recently spoke at the International Wine Tourism Conference in Perugia, Italy. You can find her on Twitter @Diane_Letulle

On March, 5, 2012, a gathering of New York City’s women wine journalists and members of the trade gathered

Sandra Alves plays host to the women of the wine trade and press in NYC

at the chic but cozy farm-to-table restaurant, Blue Hill. The occasion was the second annual Women and Wine lunch presented by Herdade do Esporão, a salute to women in New York’s wine media and trade. The lunch was hosted by Sandra Alves. Sandra is the stylish winemaker at Esporão who is charged with creating the winery’s white wines.

As the journalists arrived, old friends greeted each other and business cards were exchanged. The lunch gave us all a chance to take a break from busy schedules and enjoy each others’ company as well as the selection of Esporão wines.

Spring vegetables from Blue Hill's gardens

We gathered near the bar and enjoyed a crisp 2011 Verdelho as an aperitif with clever appetizers artistically served, including an assortment of tiny vegetables rustically punctured on thin metal rods. The aromatic wine had a crisp finish with a citrus tang.

After the hors d’oeuvres, we sat down to a three course lunch, beginning with Braised Hake with spicy fruits and vegetables. The fish was paired with two 2010s: Monte Velho White and Defesa White. The lime notes and ripe fruit of the Monte Velho were particularly pleasing with dish.

Blue Hill's Wine Director Claire Paparazzo tastes the 2010 Monte Velho

The main course was a lean cut of pork served with a chickpeas, root vegetables and hummus. With this we sipped the more sophisticated whites. The Esporão Reserva White 2010 had a creamy mouthfeel and complex layers from oak aging. But my favorite wine with the dish was the Private Selection White 2010. This rich wine–an unexpected blend of French grapes Semillon, Marsanne, and Roussanne—was a white wine that drank like a red. Its complexity, structure, and tannins stood up to the pork, including the glistening pork belly served with the meat.

Before each course, Sandra rose to address the group, walking us through the wines and sharing a bit of Esporão philosophy, all delivered with a ready smile and Portuguese charm. She was friendly and accessible and clearly delighted in this opportunity to lunch with us in the Big Apple. We, in turn, were happy to have her company and pleased to find our gifts from the winery: lovely gold pashminas embroidered with the Herdade do Esporão logo – the perfect wrap for cool spring evenings in New York.

For me, the best pairing of the day was the final one. We had a lightly sweet dessert of Bartlett pears, five spice ice cream, and almond and olive oil cake with Herdade de Esporão Late Harvest Semillon 2010. The wine’s vivid pear flavors were an outstanding match to the pear dessert. This was a sweet wine that had refreshing acidity and a lightness to it. An exceptional ending to a wonderful afternoon of New York women and Portuguese wine.

Diane Letulle, center

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Esporão wins “Producer of the Year 2011”

Best of 2011 award from WINE – A Essência do Vinho (Portuguese wine magazine)

We are thrilled to announce that Wine – A Essência do Vinho (a prestigious Portuguese wine magazine) has awarded Esporão “Producer of the Year”, as part of the annual prizes given in recognition of excellence in the sector. In the words of the magazine «(…) from the tranquillity of Reguengos de Monsaraz, (Esporão) has taken the name of the Alentejo and the wines it produces to dozens of other markets, gaining presence and prestige (…) For its brilliant past, successful present and promising future, WINE – A Essência do Vinho awards Esporão “Producer of the Year 2011”.

The magazine also highlights the launch of the Quinta dos Murças project in the Douro region: «(…) if Alentejo daring is nearing its 40th birthday, the project in the Douro, at Quinta dos Murças is a much more recent affair (…)» João Roquette, CEO of Esporão, emphasizes the importance of the nomination: “2011 was a good year for Esporão. We continued to grow and achieved important objectives, like the launch of the Quinta dos Murças wines. We receive the recognition of Wine – A Essência do Vinho with great enthusiasm and gratitude”.

Quinta dos Murças, which is located at the heart of the Douro demarcated region, was acquired by Esporão in 2008, which means that the company is now present in the two most important wine regions in the Portuguese market. 2011 was marked by the launch of the first wines produced by the brand in this region, Assobio 2009, Quinta dos Murças Reserva 2008 and Quinta dos Murças Tawny 10 anos.

As a result of increasing internationalization, the company’s exports now represent over 50% of its business volume, with a presence in over 50 markets, the main ones being Brazil, Angola and the USA.

An iconic brand in the Alentejo region, Esporão is also recognized for its commitment to sustainability, its promotion of regional and national culture and the quality of its wines and olive oils.

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Putting a cork in it: Cork and Olive Oil Production in the heart of Alentejo

Herdade do Esporão calls Alentejo home, and we can literally say that the place is literally built on history. While many budding wine geeks know that Portugal is also the home of one of wine’s most iconic packaging ingredients – cork – fewer know that Alentejo itself is the spiritual home of cork production for Portugal (which puts it in the running as spiritual home of cork production for the entire world).

And even fewer know that, in terms of quality, Alentejo also rivals global counterparts like Italy and South America in production of another epicurean staple: olive oil. Let’s take a closer look at both of this little worlds within worlds…

Getting corked in Alentejo

Cork has been harvested from Quercus suber cork oak in Alentejo for at least three hundred years (and you thought you’d spent a long time at your job!). To get an idea of how important the industry is to Portugal, consider this: about eight percent of Portugal’s entire land mass is devoted to growing the stuff (and cork is Portugal’s most important export, accounting for roughly sixteen percent of its total foreign trade income)!

Cork’s role in the wine biz is, at this point, practically legendary. While other viable means of topping off a wine are available (in synthetic corks and screwcaps), none of the alternatives have quite the same cache factor yet. And cork closures have withstood one of wine’s most important tests: the test of time; cork allows tiny amounts of oxygen into a bottle of fine wine, helping it develop slowly and gracefully, sometimes over many decades.

The bark of the cork oak is harvested during the Summer from trees which then eventually re-grow their outer “casing” and so it’s an inherently sustainable process (trivia alert: cork oak is the only known tree whose bark can be harvested in this way without damaging the plant).  There’s some bite behind the bark (ha-ha!)when it comes to protecting this important industry, as well – Portuguese law forbids stripping the oak bark more than once every nine years, in order to help ensure the trees are properly and sustainable protected during farming.

Much like the traditional food-treading process still used for some wine production in the region, cork harvesting hasn’t given over to too much modernization. The most efficient process for harvesting the cork bark remains the one that’s been in use for centuries: skilled workers do it by hand, primarily using axes that are handmade locally in Alentejo, and the industry employs nearly 60,000 people. Each tree provides enough bark to produce about 4,000 wine bottle corks.

That’s a lot to think about the next time you’re pulling the cork on a bottle of tasty Monte Velho, but when employed in moderation your new-found cork trivia will probably impress whoever is lucky enough to be sharing that bottle with you!

Oiled up

Because of its fertile soil and warm climate, Alentejo is often called “the bread basket of Portugal” and has an abundance of agriculture, one of the standouts of which is arguably its olive oil, which is world-class.

Esporão's Olive Oil selection

Esporão's Olive Oil selection

Olive trees came to Portugal with the Romans, who spread the plants throughout the Iberian peninsula during the Bronze Age (how’s that for an established agricultural endeavor?). Portugal accounts for only a little over one percent of the world’s olive oil production, but what it lacks in quantity it more than makes up for in gourmet-level quality, and several PDO (Protected Designation of Origin) zones have been established within the country (including Alentejo) to protect quality levels and production techniques. Alentejo olive oil tends to have golden or greenish color tinges, with a ripe and green olive fruit aromas and hints of apple and fig, which give an impression of slight, fruity sweetness. In other words, it’s food geeks’ olive oil, indulgent and ready for prime time.

True to Esporão’s tradition-meets-modern approach, their olive oil is 100% Portuguese from a long-established region, but employes modern, temperature-controlled techniques to press and extract the oil and ensure its cleanliness throughout the production process (all the way down to humidity and water controls). The olive varieties used include Vulgar, Cordovil de Serpa, Cobrançosa and Verdeal Alentejana, each imparting different nuances of color, flavors and aromas, and much of the production is Extra Virgin (meaning that the oil is extracted without any chemical products, and the acidity of the oil is less than 0.8%).

Esporão’s olive oil offerings are diverse, including the rustic, flavorful SELECÇÃO, the fresh and fruity GALEGA, the food-friendly and versatile DOP MOURA, and (the author’s personal favorite) grassy and slightly bitter CORDOVIL (real gourmands are going to want to try to get their hands on that one).

Of course, you don’t need to know any of that to enjoy the taste of Portuguese olive oil, or the numerous possible health benefits it provides (such as being a rich source of antioxidants, potentially helping to prevent diseases, improve digestion, skin and reduction of inflammation…). But if you do end up getting your hands on some it, just be sure not to dazzle your dinner guests too much with your newly-acquired olive oil smarties, okay?

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Guest Blogger: Carlos Ferreira

Guest Blogger: Carlos Ferreira
Carlos Ferreira is the owner of Ferreira Café in Montreal, Canada. It was Carlo’s dream to create a sunny piece of Portugal in Canada and introduce the people of Montreal to the wonderful cuisine of Portugal. Opened in 1996, the Café has received numerous awards, accolades and welcomed many notable guests; including those from the music and film industries. In fact, Ferreira Café got the award for best Portuguese restaurant, outside of Portugal. One of Carlos’ proudest moments was when the President of Portugal came to visit in 2001.
The key for success still remains the contagious passion of Carlos Ferreira; Ferreira Café reflects the image of its owner. Carlos believes that simplicity reflects the real beauty of things. From its cuisine to a warm Mediterranean décor, to one of the largest Porto cellars in North America, Carlos Ferreira has surrounded himself with a great team; starting with his good friend Marino Tavares, the executive Chef since the opening. Marino was nominated best Chef of the year in Montreal in 2001.
In spite of his success, Carlos remains close with all of his clients. It remains vitally important to him to hear their comments and opinions. This is how he is able to satisfy the needs of Ferreira Café’s customers.
Every day is a challenge. The need to improve, create, surprise is still very awake in Carlos Ferreira`s mind.

 

 

 

 

 

 

“I have known Esporão for more than 15 years.
Since the opening of my Restaurant in Montreal, Ferreira Café, times when Alentejo and Esporão were fairly unknown, I always had the desire to promote quality and good taste, therefore it was imperative to include Esporão in our wine list.
Esporão has been one of the leaders of wine producers and is considered one of the best wines from Portugal. Promoting Alentejo and Esporão, will always be my pleasure and pride. To share these excellent wines in North America will always be my mission.
The friendship that I share with Esporão, the memories I keep from my visits to the winery both in pleasure and business, the amazing evenings, the great scenario, the sharing of taste for wine with good friends, stimulate in me the respect that I have for the Esporão Family. Here work is well done at all levels. It’s my pride and joy to promote this company as far as possible.
I hope to continue to discover the pleasures and innovations of this winery that can’t stop surprising me.”

Carlos recommends pairing the following dish with Esporão Private Selection White 2010.

 

CATAPLANA DE FRUITS DE MER

Cataplana is a Portuguese seafood dish from Portugal’s Algarve coast. It is also the name of the cookware for this recipe. The pot is traditionally made of copper and shaped like two clam shells hinged at one end and is able to be sealed using a clamp on either side.

Serves 4

INGREDIENTS

7 oz. of salmon filet

7 oz. of halibut filet

7 oz. Swordfish or mahi-mahi

2 prawns

6 small shrimp

1 lobster (1 ¼ lbs.)

2 tablespoons of olive oil

2 garlic cloves, minced

½  of a Spanish onion, chopped

½ red bell pepper, chopped

½ yellow pepper, chopped

½ green bell pepper, chopped

1 bay leaf

1 cup white wine

1 cup fish stock

1 cup of tomatoes, peeled, seeded and diced

2 oz. spicy chorizo, sliced into thin rounds

6 littleneck clams

6 mussels

2 scallops

10-12  mini new potatoes, cooked

1 tablespoon  fresh coriander, chopped

DIRECTIONS

Cut the salmon, the halibut and swordfish or mahi-mahi into large chunks, (season with salt and pepper). Shell and de-vein the shrimp. Cut the lobster into two halves. Set aside.

Pu the cataplana (pot) over medium heat, add oil, onion, garlic, peppers and the bay leaf and saute for 5 minutes.

Add the wine, the fish stock, tomatoes and chorizo. Place the lobster in the pan and let simmer 7 minutes with the lid on. Add the prawns and cook for 2 minutes.

Then add the fish and clams and cook for another 2 minutes. At the end, add the mussles, the scallops and new potatoes, turn off the heat but replace the lid. Let stand covered for 2 minutes.

Add the coriander when ready to serve.

 

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When It’s Okay To Judge A Book By Its Cover (A Sneak Peak At The One-Of-A-Kind Art On Esporão’s Upcoming Releases)

The stunning work of Rui Sanches graces the new releases of Esporão wines

We’ve all been told (many times, probably) that we shouldn’t judge a book by its cover.

And while that’s certainly true (see, you were right, Mom!), it’s can also be argued that an exceptional book deserves an exceptional cover to match it. It doesn’t change what’s between those covers, of course, but there’s no doubt that the right wrapping can compliment and even enhance the pleasure you get out of the entire experience of what’s inside.

It’s in that spirit that Esporão has, since their first vintage in 1985, commissioned over 24 artists to design one-of-a-kind works to be displayed on the labels of their Reserva and Private Selection wines. The contributors have including many notable artists: António Ole, Armando Alves, Artur Bual, Costa Pinheiro, Dórdio Gomes, Gabriel e Gilberto Colaço, Graça Morais, Guilherme Parente, Joana Vasconcelos (who was profiled here in July), João Hogan, José de Guimarães, José Manuel Rodrigues, José Pedro Croft, Julião Sarmento, Júlio Pomar, Júlio Resende, Luís Pinto Coelho, Manuel Cargaleiro, Mestre Isabelino, Pedro Cabrita Reis, Pedro Calapez, Pedro Proença, and Rubens Gerschman.

You can now add Lisbon-born, award-winning sculpture and drawing artist Rui Sanches to that list.

Sanches lives and works in Lisbon, and has studied in Goldsmith’s College in the UK, and Yale University, in the U.S. His works have been exhibited since 1984, and his works can now be found in galleries worldwide, including Spain and Belgium.

His work for Esporão can now be found on the labels for the new vintages of Esporão’s wines, including Esporão Reserva White 2010, Reserva Red 2009, Esporão Private Selection White 2010 and Private Selection Red 2008. The works are stunning; but you don’t need to take my word for it – have a look at them yourself in the bottle shots (click each to get a closer look)!

The idea behind the commissioned labels is to capture the emotions of the world of wine, and Sanches’ work for the current Esporão releases visually evoke the landscape of farms and fields in Alentejo, where the Esporão wines originate. The color schemes go for your emotional side, as they are reminiscent of the colors and flavors of the wines themselves.

Like wine itself, the works make an emotional connection rather than a literal visual one, but once you taste the wines those connections will seem much more obvious and direct than abstract. All in all, they’re fitting covers for the wonderful stories inside those bottles.

You’ll be able to take in your share of those stories when the wines hit the shelves in the U.S. in 2012 (until then, you’ll just have to look at the stunning art on the bottle shots, and try not to drool on your keyboard). And then you’ll be able to appreciate when a cover can make a story better (just don’t tell Mom, okay?).

António Ole, Armando Alves, Artur Bual, Costa Pinheiro, Dórdio Gomes, Gabriel e Gilberto Colaço, Graça Morais, Guilherme Parente, Joana Vasconcelos, João Hogan, José de Guimarães, José Manuel Rodrigues, José Pedro Croft, Julião Sarmento, Júlio Pomar, Júlio Resende, Luís Pinto Coelho, Manuel Cargaleiro, Mestre Isabelino, Pedro Cabrita Reis, Pedro Calapez, Pedro Proença, Rubens Gerschman
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Joining The Movement: The Case For A New Portuguese Flagship Red

Touriga Nacional.

Touriga Nacional: Not a political movement, but a vinous Portuguese ambassador

Go ahead, say it. It’s kind of fun, actually.

Tor-EE-gah Nah-seeon-OW. Draw out the “OOOOWWWW” at the end (it’s even more fun).

While it looks (and sounds) like a political party or social movement (especially with the “national” bit), it’s actually a grape variety – the one widely regarded as being the backbone of the greatest Ports and finest still red wines in all of Portugal. In a country with a long tradition (and saying “long” isn’t stretching it, either – remember this, people: organized Portuguese wine production predates the creation of the United States) of creating exceptional wines by blending different grape varieties together, Touriga Nacional (TN) stands tall as the leader of the blended vinous pack.

When blended, TN provides a backbone of firm tannic structure without being abrasive, as well as freshness (thanks to its acidity) and gobs of dark berry fruits, while also adding complexity via its spices and hints of flowers. It also plays nice with oak, allowing winemakers some oak-aging possibilities to add additional finesse and balance. No wonder then that TN is now being touted as the flagship red grape variety of Portugal, and excellent non-blended/single-varietal offerings are starting to crop up.

TN doesn’t at first seem such a good representative for all of Portugal. Many wine producers will tell you that TN is a bit difficult to work with, which is exactly the opposite of how most would describe working with the generally warm and hospitable Portuguese people. TN vines offer a vintner’s nightmare combination of high vigor and low yields – which means lots of work for a small amount of fruit. But while the resulting crop isn’t big, the berries that you do get are jam-packed with blueberry and blackberry fruits, peppery spices and hints of violet. In other words, the payoff is worth the effort.

Aside from causing potential headaches for grape-growers, TN proves to be a well-behaved and upstanding Portuguese ambassador. It’s arguably the best indigenous red wine grape in a country chock full of indigenous red wine grapes, and it travels well, seeming to feel at home in quite a few of Portugal’s unique climates (at least, that’s the story that the resulting wines are telling).

Esporão's single-varietal Touriga Nacional

The steep, winding, river-side hills of the Douro are probably TN’s spiritual home, where it often shows up as the primary ingredient in the best Ports. But it’s also becoming the bedrock of some of the region’s best dry red wines as well.  For some drinkable proof of that (and let’s face it, that’s the best kind of proof, right?), you can try Assobio, one of the new releases from Esporão’s Douro property, Quinta dos Murças. Assobio blends TN with two other high-quality Douro stalwart grapes, Touriga Franca and Tinta Roriz, and the result showcases TN’s hallmark freshness and peppery spices, complimenting the other grapes’ ripe red berry fruit flavors.

TN also shines in the sunnier, warm and quite dry region of Alentejo. Esporão’s DEFESA Red shows how TN can compliment grapes that aren’t native to Portugal – it blends TN from younger vines with the more familiar Syrah, resulting in a red wine that adds freshness, structure floral notes to round out the fullness and plump red fruits of the Syrah. See, we told you it was a well-behaved ambassador!

So what about letting TN get some of the spotlight on its own? Esporão’s “monovarietal” line includes a bottling of 100% Touriga Nacional, sourced from what might eb the oldest TN vineyards in all of the Alentejo region. The focus of the monovarietal TN in this case is to showcase TN as a complete wine, one that can stand entirely on its own.  About 12 months of aging in new French oak barrels in order to gives the wine complexity and an elegant mouthfeel, but the most exciting thing about the monovarietal TN is its deep, focused blueberry and blackberry fruits, complimented by a hint of violets. This is a wine that can take care of itself out there in the big world.

After garnering quite a bit of experience with Touriga NAcional, Esporão’s winemaking director David Baverstock considers himself a card-carrying member of the TN movement:

“Personally, I am great believer in the variety and the concept of promoting it as a single varietal – it is a starting point that can lead us into the wealth of Portugese grape varieties (some 250 in all) and will bring focus to the country and eventually many of the other grapes, which are also outstanding.”

Take up the cause, brothers and sisters, and join the movement!

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High Fives, Great Food and Stained Shirts: Recapping David Baverstock’s 2011 U.S. Tour

Dinner at Alfama in NYC

Every year, David Baverstock – the wily winemaking director behind Esporão’s wines – journeys from Alentejo, Portugal to the United States to tour three U.S. metropolitan cities and introduce them to the company’s new products.  David’s 2011 U.S. tour marked a few “firsts”: it was the first time that David had visited Boston; it was the U.S. debut for the wines of Quinta dos Murças (but then you intrepid blog readers already know all about those wines, don’t you?); and it marked the first time that David had to execute a wardrobe change (more on that in a minute or two).

Things kicked off on October 17th at Alfama in New York, a restaurant that specializes in Portuguese cuisine, in their private downstairs dining area.  Given Alfama’s focus on traditional dishes from Portugal, it was a fitting spot to kick off David’s tour and especially to show off the food-friendly versatility of Esporão’s wines: the menu included Bacalhau Espiritual (or traditional Portuguese salted cod – if you’re handy in the kitchen, you can try your hand at a custom recipe by Esporão’schef Miguel Vaz), as well as a “high wire act” daring-but-successful pairing of Esporao Reserva red with Escabeche of Sardines.

David lunches at Aldea in NYC with members of the media and Esporão U.S. staff

David is an avid sports fan, and while speaking about soccer teams from Portugal with a guest at the dinner in Alfama, David and the guest performed a high five to celebrate their appreciation for what they thought at the time was their same favorite Portuguese team. During the impromptu and timeless sports fan gesture, a glass of red wine spilled all over David, who then had to deliver short speeches about each wine pairing with stains all over his shirt and pants.

While David was giving speeches in his wine-soaked clothes, the guest left the dinner event and went into good-Samaritan mode returning about an hour and half and several trips to downtown NY department stores later, with a pair of Levi’s and a Tennis shirt for David (David’s an avid tennis player, so he was quite happy with the wardrobe change).

The worst part wasn’t the ruined clothes, however – it was that David and the guest initially thought they were “high five-ing” for the same team. After the fact and some more detailed discussion, they realized they actually support different Portuguese soccer teams: David is a fan of Porto, while the guest is a fan of Sporting (of whom, coincidentally, Esporão owner Jose Roquette was the chairman for many years).

Ouch.

Fortunately, the next tour stop – Harvest Restaurant on October 20th in Boston, was without any wardrobe mishaps (which technically ranks the event above SuperBowl XLVIII!). During the Boston stop, David conducted a radio interview with Jonathon Aslop from Boston Wine School (which, being radio, would have been okay even if there had been another wardrobe problem, after all).  Dinner guests were treated to Chef Mary Dumont’s cooking, including Mushroom, Quail Egg, Arugula & Quince Vinegar (paired with Esporão Reserva White 2009 and Reserva Red 2008), and a Duo of Heritage Pork, Braised Cheek & Belly, Violet Mustard & Butternut Squash Puree (paired with Assobio 2009 and Quinta dos Murças Reserva 2008).

David interviewed by Jonathan Aslop of Boston Wine School

David introduces Houston to the wines of Quinta dos Murças

Finally, October 20th found David in Houston, TX, with dinner held at the up-and-coming Philippe Restaurant.  Chef Philippe himself remarked that he had found the process of creating the dinner event menu quite interesting, as the Esporão wines offered so much food versatility and flavors to work with, and a red and a white wine were paired with each dish.

It was a completely packed house, and an elegant evening for the guests – though a busy one for the bustling Philippe staff, who had to accommodate a few more people than anticipated and ensure they had just enough of the special  items ordered for the menu for everyone.

David in Houston with Bill Elsey and Rob Moshein, filming an education video piece for Wines.com

Beef shank and marrow from Philippe restaurant in Houston

Two of the Philippe menu item pairings stuck out in guests’ minds that night: Tuna Belly seared, on a mushroom lasagna, with Banyuls sauce (paired with Esporão Private Selection White 2009 and Private Selection Red 2007), and a Beef Shank in red wine sauce w/ juniper berries & nutmeg (paired with Assobio 2009 and Quinta dos Murças Reserva 2008); what made the latter particularly unique was the inclusion of Marrow with shallot marmalade, soft polenta, and spinach – served within a half-hollowed bone.

Great food, to be sure, but the real stars of the show? Quinta dos Murças’ wines, which the guests found well structured, with excellent balance and food-friendly acidity. In Houston, the Quinta dos Murças Reserva in particular was noted for its almost Bordeaux like qualities, while still being decidedly Portuguese – which is about as perfect a summary for that wine as you’re likely to find anywhere.

Just try to keep the stuff off your shirt if you try it a nice restaurant, okay?